STICKS - Trendy in all categories

November 11th, 2022

sticks

For several years now, the sticks galenic has experienced a strong growth that continues to accelerate. In line with solid cosmetics, this hot-poured cosmetic galenic has advantages for consumers: nomadic, compact packaging, suitable for travel, ease and precision of application.

Added to this is an ecological dimension that is increasingly resonating in the collective consciousness: reduced water use, less bulky packaging, often in recyclable and/or refillable packagings, shorter, concentrated formulas.

An economic dimension also comes into consideration with a more parsimonious use and less product loss during use.

Sticks formulations have first diversified within the make-up category, in which they can be found in the form of foundation, illuminator, bronzer, concealer, blush, eyeshadow, foundation, etc.  We also note a strong diversification in other categories such as the skin care with sun protections, moisturizers face, oils, serums, tonics, eye care, body care, baby care, make-up removers and many others. Hygiene, hair care and perfumery have also adopted this trend. The uses and textures are multiplying, for an expanding target.

This galenic presents important constraints for formulators and manufacturers. It is necessary to obtain a homogeneous, non-brittle stick, with a good deposit, while having hardness and a good stability. The appearance of the stick must also be excellent ; crystallization, exudation or cracks must be avoided.

With the diversification of applications, stick formulations can be aqueous, anhydrous, emulsions, aqueous or fatty gels, transparent or not. Each type of formulation leads to specific development constraints. A rigorous selection of raw materials will thus be essential for the success of these formulatory performances. Added to this, the process will also be decisive: melting points, cooling speed, polarity of oils, will have to be carefully studied.

At Summit Cosmetics Europe, we offer a selection of essential ingredients for the development of different types of sticks.

Formula Type

Essential ingredients

Function

Caracteristics

Opaque anhydrous

CASID® HSA

Structure of the stick

Structuring agent / Consistency factor of fatty phase and glycols. Derived from castor oil. Melting point: 76°C. 99% vegetable origin. Allows to develop anhydrous systems without wax. Can also be used as a co-emulsifier (O/W).

NATURECHEM® GMHS

Consistency

Solid emollient of vegetable origin. Alternative to glyceryl stearate.

NOMCORT® SG

Consistency

Soluble with low and high polarity esters, vegetable and mineral oils.

NOMCORT® HK-G

Consistency, Touch

Oil gelling agent resulting from the condensation of glycerin, behenic acid and eicosadioic acid. Melting point of 65°C. Creates a smooth gel with thixotropic properties. Can be used as a thickener and stabilizer for W/O emulsions.

BIOLIPID SHEA

Touch, Sliding

Biodegradable and ecological. Melting point: 60°C (viscous liquid). Resulting from the fermentation of organic shea butter. Less greasy touch than classic shea butter. Co-emulsifier.

NEPHRITE YJ10

Touch, Sliding

Precious stone powder (jade). Excellent transparency compared to talc or synthetic mica. Soft touch.

AMILON

Touch, Sliding

Silica filler coated with lauroyl lysine. Provides a soft and silky touch. Moisturizing properties.

BA4

Touch

Non-porous microspheres to replace plastic microbeads. Soft-focus effect.

SERICITE N6/NSBC

Touch, Cohesiveness

Mineral filler coated with sunflower oil. Good softness and glide on the skin. Good compaction properties.

KAOLIN G-35M

Consistency, Cohesiveness

Matifying and opacifying properties.

CANDELILLA WAX MD-21

Consistency, Long-lasting

Plasticizing effect. Melting point: 65°C. Selection of Candelilla hydrocarbons (about 80% / C31). Improves hold. Long-lasting effect.

SUNFLOWER WAX

Consistency

Excellent solubility. Melting point: 74-80°C. Good compatibility.

CASTORWAX®

Consistency

White color and compatibility with all systems.

CASTORLATUM™

Consistency, Spreading, Touch

Vegetable alternative to petrolatum, derived from castor oil. Less greasy, entirely vegetable, it has a similar consistency and melting point (87°C) to petrolatum. Excellent moisturizer and pigment wetting agent. Low odor. High stability.   

TRIVENT™ MANGO BUTTER

Touch

Mango butter. Provides softness during application. Contains vitamin F. Good alternative to parafin. Stable to oxidation. Melting point : 35°C. 

Formula Type

Essential ingredients

Function

Caracteristics

Anhydrous and transparent

ESTOGEL® GREEN 

Consistency, Structure, Touch

Gels polar to medium polar and some non-polar oils. Helps form a clear continuous gel with good suspending ability. Can be sprayed, pumped and spread easily. Soft and silky to the touch. Film former.

ESTOGEL® GREEN  40

Consistency, Structure, Touch

ESTOGEL® M

Consistency, Structure, Touch

Gels polar to medium polar oils. Helps to form a transparent gel with a very good suspension capacity. Emulsion stabilizer. Reducer of wax crystallization. Soft and silky touch effect

EMC30

Consistency, Structure, Touch

Aqueous

NXT SOLV 420

Solubilizing, Touch

Solvent derived from levulinic acid from cellulosic sources. Sustainable replacement for many raw materials including glycol ether acetates, alcohols and D-limonene. Allows for the introduction of significant amounts of water into anhydrous products.

GREENDIOL®

Preservation, Solubilizing, Gliding

Natural humectant 100% of natural origin. Provides a moisturizing effect and reinforces the antibacterial activity. Helps the active ingredients to remain stabilized. Light texture and high penetration in the skin.

NOMCORT® HK-P

Consistency, Spread, Touch

Gelling agent of glycol and pure alcohol. Compatible with ethanol, propylene glycol, glycerin. Stabilizer for O/W emulsions and hydro as a thickener. Very soft feel.

Emulsion

SOLDOC PGPR

Emulsion formation

W/O emulsifier of natural origin. Suitable for internal phase emulsions with high water content. Forms very stable emulsions. The liquid form allows room temperature formulation with an easy and reproducible process.

SOLDOC PG 410 MB

Emulsion formation

O/W emollient and emulsifier. Fast penetration during application. Good solubilization properties.

NOMCORT® HK-G

Emulsion formation, Touch

Oil gelling agent resulting from the condensation of glycerin, behenic acid and eicosadioic acid. Melting point of 65°C. Creates a smooth gel with thixotropic properties. Can be used as a thickener and stabilizer for W/O emulsions.

NOMCORT® HK-P

Emulsion formation, Touch

Gelling agent of glycol and pure alcohol. Compatible with ethanol, propylene glycol, glycerin. Stabilizer for O/W emulsions and hydro as a thickener. Very soft feel

CASTORLATUM™

Consistency, Spreading, Touch

Vegetable alternative to petrolatum, derived from castor oil. Less greasy, entirely vegetable, it has a similar consistency and melting point (87°C) to petrolatum. Excellent moisturizer and pigment wetting agent. Low odor. High stability.   

Find all the information about these products, the associated formulas and their documentation in our website

More information?

Do not hesitate to contact your sales representative at Summit Cosmetics Europe or send your request directly to contact@summitcosmetics-europe.com

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