GREASO™ COCOS : a self-emulsifier for the minimalist trend

13th February 2025

Minimalism in cosmetics, or skinimalism, is revolutionizing beauty routines by focusing on simplicity and effectiveness. This trend favours simple formulations, with essential, multi-functional ingredients that reduce the number of products used while optimising performance. Driven by a quest for transparency, a concern for sustainability and a need for quick routines, skinimalism meets the expectations of modern consumers, particularly Millennials and Generation Z.

For industry players, this approach offers a strategic opportunity: to design innovative, eco-responsible products that fit into lighter routines, while meeting standards of transparency and efficacy. By promoting high added-value skincare products – such as multi-functional moisturisers and targeted serums – minimalism redefines beauty as a combination of simplicity, performance and ecological awareness.

To meet this trend, SUMMIT COSMETICS EUROPE introduces GREASO™ COCOS, developed by its new partner, GWAY COSMETICS. GREASO™ COCOS is a high-performance oil-in-water self-emulsifier formulated from coconut oil and hydrogenated coconut oil. Preservative-free, this versatile ingredient creates thermostable emulsions, offering optimum stability even at high temperatures. With a melting point of 47°C, GREASO™ COCOS guarantees excellent compatibility with a wide range of ingredients and can be easily incorporated into a variety of formulations. Its high performance allows homogeneous and stable emulsions to be obtained, surpassing the performance of hydrogenated lecithin.

Emulsion avec GREASO™ COCOS

Emulsion avec de la Lecithine hydrogenée

Easy to use, this new ingredient meets the needs of formulators looking for solutions that are both effective and simple to use.

It gives the formula a rich, butter-like texture, while leaving a protective, lipid-replenishing film on the skin. These emollient properties allow it to replace oils and butters in formulas. This self-emulsifier makes it quick and easy to form an emulsion, by following the steps below:

The emulsions obtained with GREASO™ COCOS offer great flexibility, allowing them to cover a range from very fluid textures, such as a body lotion, to thicker formats such as balms, depending on the percentage of self-emulsifier used. This versatility makes GREASO™ COCOS an ideal ingredient for developing a diverse range of formulas from a common base.

At 15-20%, it can be used to create thick emulsions without the need for a co-emulsifier.
At 3-15%, it acts as an effective emulsifier and stabiliser for oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions.

Besides its emulsifying and emollient properties, GREASO™ COCOS stands out for its ability to be easily absorbed percutaneously. This characteristic makes it an ideal base for improving the diffusion and penetration of active ingredients.

A test carried out on artificial skin comparing a standard cream with a cream enriched in GREASO™ COCOS, both containing Niacinamide, revealed significant results. Using HPLC analysis, it was shown that GREASO™ COCOS increased the amount of active taken up by receptors by 15%.

As well as its high performance in cosmetic formulations, GREASO™ COCOS stands out for its low environmental impact. Manufactured using a low-temperature process, it contributes to the reduction of CO2 emissions by minimising energy consumption. The two INCIs that make up this self-emulsifier have been awarded a Level 1 rating by the Environmental Working Group (EWG), a US organisation committed to human and environmental health. This ‘green’ rating guarantees that GREASO™ COCOS fully complies with the strict criteria set by the EWG in terms of safety and sustainability.

To sum up, GREASO™ COCOS represents a major breakthrough for formulators looking for high-performance, versatile and environmentally-friendly ingredients. Thanks to its self-emulsifying properties, its compatibility with a wide range of ingredients, and its low ecological impact, it stands out as an innovative solution to meet the demands of today’s consumers and trends. Versatile, easy to use and backed up by solid technical data, it opens up new possibilities for developing effective, sensorial and responsible cosmetic products.